InMilan, Gucci, Sunnei and Missoni focus on transformation.national pastime

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InMilan, Gucci, Sunnei and Missoni focus on transformation.national pastime

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MILAN (AP) — The third day of Milan Fashion Week, Friday’s Milan runway was mostly a preview of the upcoming spring and summer women’s wear.

Sometimes it required an internal transformation like Gucci, an upgrade in the style game like Sunnei, and a brand transformation like Missoni.with Stella Jean

Highlights from Friday’s show.

gucci twinsburg

Gucci Creative Director Alessandro Michele has created a truly parallel universe on the Milan runway for a stunning theatrical release.

For his Spring/Summer 2022-2023 collection, dubbed ‘Twinsburg,’ Michele staged side-by-side shows inside the Gucci Hub, unnoticed by each other until the walls were lifted, with the same look in a synchronous stride. revealed the twins of

In the final walkthrough, 68 pairs of twins met in the center, held hands, and reunited for the final walkthrough.

The announcement was so powerful and unexpected that I got to hear the usually jaded fashionista confess after she burst into tears.

“I was crying too. I don’t really know why,” Michele said backstage. “I don’t cry a lot, but it was so intense that maybe it was appropriate to cry at the end.”

“I think it’s a lot more complicated to do this job now. Sometimes I ask myself why am I doing this? Someone’s talking about nuclear war. Politics is a disaster. Earth. The situation above is a disaster,” Michele added. “But the only weapon we have as humans is to imagine something else and make it happen.”

Michele revealed that the show is an exploration of our own inner selves, and that we have a sort of inner twin that can hold us back or inspire us.

His “other side” idea was shaped by an unusual family structure, growing up believing he had two mothers. He is his own genetic mother and twin sister. They couldn’t stand being apart, so he called them both “Mama” as they raised their family near their apartment. He said he began to understand the difference when his aunt died when he was seven years old.

“I had two mothers because we all lived together, so I really appreciated what it meant to take care of the other,” he said.

Michele said the duplication of his collection gave more power to the garments, which were styled to the eclectic standards that Michele set to achieve great global success.

They included a suit with trousers that appeared to be held together by garters, exposing the upper thighs, a part of the male body rarely seen in formal wear. The patterned quilted jacket and pants are genderless items. Rich silk embroidered robes, pleated at the back and trailing trains. The look was adorned with new facial jewelry with metallic fringes that can also be seen on sunglasses.

The evil twin concept was brought to life on the runway by a motif from the 1980s film Gremlins. Appearing as stuffed animal accessories, patches, and prints, Gremlins were meant to emphasize “fear of your evil self.”

Michele embellished with the words “Fuori!!!” Far-right parties are expected to dominate Sunday’s Italian parliamentary elections.

“The election clearly shows that freedom is being eroded bit by bit,” he said. “There was a time when we were accomplishing a lot. It’s very complicated.”

Alter Ego of Sunnei

Milan sensation designer Sunnei experimented with the idea of ​​a makeover using twins to represent an alter ego.

One after another, plainclothes-clad models descended from the stands and stepped onto the runway before walking through a revolving door, from which the twins returned, sporting new Sunnei looks.

Designers Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo seemed to be telling a young audience of hoodie-loving street dressers how to up their game when it comes to style.

So the sleeveless sweatshirt and jeans combination morphed into a green and blue striped shirt and wore loose white shorts. He returned as an alter ego wearing a long royal blue coat with collar and cuffs. Khaki pants and a gray shirt disappeared behind the door, revealing her loose-fitting lime her green top with gathers her pants like an urban track suit.

Versace Gothic Goddesses

Gigi Hadid wore a dark hoodie dress with a high slink factor. Her sister Bella was a bright red bride in a dark purple lace corset and wrinkled satin skirt. Ratajkowski wears a leather micro mini with a tough biker jacket and studded handbag. And Paris Hilton overwhelmed them all in a shimmery fuchsia minidress and paired with silver heeled pumps.

Forget the muse. These are Donatella Versace’s Dark Her Gothic Goddesses, representing a collection that conveys the power of women in a way only Versace can.

“I’ve always loved rebels,” Versace said in the show notes.

The shiny hoodie, wrapped in a shaggy furry jacket made from upcycled chiffon and lace, plunged into a navel-deep cowl. It was worn over trousers and the Versace logo fluttered down the long skirt. Sheer black dresses featured skin-baring cut-outs, with fringes flowing from jackets, dresses, and pants. The color palette is decidedly darker, with purple and black undertones, with hints of red, lime and fuchsia.

The show conveys a strong sense of feminine ritual, with models illuminated by dark candles, traversing a runway lined with stained glass windows bearing the head of Versace medusa, exiting a glass-enclosed space, and a man in a bathrobe. reclined in a golden chair surrounded by purple columns. It highlights changes in force dynamics.


Haitian-Italian designer Stella Jean is back on the Milan runway after a two-year hiatus. It was a tour de force that highlighted the talent of her ten new designers of color, whose design history is tied to Italy.

Jean has pledged not to attend Milan Fashion Week until 2020 when she is no longer the only black designer. The “We are Made in Italy” movement, which she founded with Black American designer Edward Buchanan and Afro Fashion Week Milano founder Michelle Ngomuno, ensured she wouldn’t.

Buchanan kicked off the show with his Sansonvino 6 line of denim-feel jersey knitwear, followed by a capsule collection by WAMI’s latest group of designers, the Fabulous Five, with Italian tailoring and craftsmanship she sourced from around the world. The creation of Stella Jean, which combines references from

Each of the new WAMI designers shares a connection to Italy, either through their families or by immigrating to study or work here.

Italian-Indian designer Eileen Claudia Akbaraly introduced a Made for a Woman brand that makes raffia clothing and accessories ethically sourced from Madagascar. New York-based designer Akira Stewart founded her brand of FATRA bags that work with recycled plastic waste. Indian-born girlfriend Neha Poorswani designs shoes under the name ‘Runway Reinvented’. Vietnamese designer Phang Dang Hoang’s apparel line mixes Asian and Western cultures, while Korean designer Kim Gaeun’s “Villain” brand blends elements of traditional Korean clothing with contemporary hip-hop culture. I’m here.

“There are so many Italians who are not Italian but immigrants who feel Italian. I think it’s very beautiful,” Stewart said.

Models, designers and activists gathered on the runway, clapping and swaying to Cynthia Erivo’s “Stand Up” as the show came to a celebratory end.

In an optimistic tone, Jean urged Italians in the crowd to vote during Sunday’s parliamentary elections, despite predictions that far-right and anti-immigrant parties were likely to win.

“Don’t be afraid Sunday, September 25th. Things can’t get worse. We have to trust our country,” she said.

Missoni Makeover

Renowned family-run fashion house Missoni has taken a new turn with a new creative director scouring its archives for clues on how to make the brand’s fine knitwear relevant to a new generation.

The star-studded front row marked the target audience, including performer Paris Jackson, US actor Madison Bailey, model and social media influencer Maddie White, and Brazilian model Alessandra Ambrosio .

Creative director Filippo Grazioli’s youthful silhouette was captured in a sheer dress with pretty sequins over a bodysuit, a deep V-slit mini skirt, and zigzag culotte panties.

Models wore sheer tops and walked down the runway with no bras. Grazioli said the moment honored brand founder Rosita Missoni’s decision to send the model to the runways of Florence in 1966.

The look included oversized zigzags and less familiar archival geometrics. This season’s shoes were Lucite platform heels with wraparounds, and the look was complemented by flat silver his jewelry.

Not all pieces adhere strictly to Missoni’s knitwear ethos, from sequin-encrusted ballet skirts to sheer long dresses like Paris Jackson’s black-and-white zig-zag culottes.

To mark the transition, Missoni employees occupied half the seats in Bocconi’s basement atrium, while students from Milan’s business school watched from above through plate-glass windows above.